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Monday 13 July 2009

天津狗不理包子/Gobuli Meat Buns, Tianjing, China

Rating: Avoid Like H*ll, unless some moron insist on treating you with this crap.
評等:狗不理,連狗都不理!你要理了,就比狗還不如;不吃後悔,吃了更後悔。



Gobuli is an very old restaurant famous for its meat buns. Its name means "only dogs do not care" in Chinese.

k... it does not taste that bad, but only a moron would pay RMB¥48 for this set.

味道其實不差,但是這樣的套餐,只有笨蛋才會付人民幣¥48!

去天津是臨時起意,事前沒計畫安排。狗不理離下榻處不遠,就走過去了。裏頭是人山人海。除了包子,還能點其他的菜。包子也有很多等級、花樣。我想別的菜可以到別處吃,而最簡單的東西最考功夫,所以就只要了包子套餐。包子裏沒幾丁碎肉。這種包子在東北一個賣人民幣五毛都嫌貴!還看到對面桌還把小孩抱到桌上撒尿在塑膠杯裏,再把那裝滿尿的杯子放地上。

Visiting Tianjin was a spontaneous decision. Gobuli was not far away from my hotel. So I walked over. The restaurant was darn crowded. In addition to its famous meat buns, other dishes were also available. There are various kinds of meat buns also. Consider I can get other dishes somewhere else, and simple dishes are the best way to show the skill of the cook, I ordered only the most basic meat bun. There were very few fillings. This bun would cost less than RMB¥0.5 each in North Eastern China. In addition, I saw a guest from the next table instruct her child to piss on the table into a plastic cup, then put the cup on the floor.

後來結識了一位天津本地老饕。說天津人根本不吃狗不理。這館子除了“狗不理”三字之外,跟古時候以包子出名的那家館子半點關係沒有!原先狗不理的包子的確出名,後來因戰亂早人去樓空。共產時代收歸國有,改革開放後再放給私人經營。你說這麼一搞,這家破店跟那家百年老店能有多大關係?要說有多好吃,抱著百年老店的金字招牌,還能經營到破產,2005年被天津同仁堂收購,你說能有多好吃?最近聽說狗不理要登陸臺灣。等著看臺灣人是否會發揮崇洋媚外的精神,再造一次麥當勞奇跡吧?

Later, I got to know a guomet from Taijin. He confirms that locals cannot care less about Gobuli. Other than the name, this restaurant has nothing to do with the old one famous for its meat buns. The old restaurant was indeed famous. However, everyone went away during wars. In communist era, the place is run by the country. As China "open up" (to adapt capitalism), it was run by private parties again. Even with all its fame, the restaurant was so bad that it got bankrupt. Now it is bought by Tongrentang.


檢視較大的地圖

我在狗不理可沒見過照片裏那麼多的餡兒。這麼說吧,你要把包子揭開,可以從餡的縫裏看到下面那層麵。

I did not see this much filling when I was in Gobuli. If you take off the upper shell, you would be able to see the bottom through the gaps among fillings.


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